Elia has stood on the same stretch of Pythagorio harbour since 2006, a family kitchen that grew, season by season, into one of the tables people on Samos actually recommend to each other.
The cooking follows the Aegean: fish landed that morning, meat from the hill villages behind the port, vegetables in season, and recipes carried from Samian kitchens and sharpened with a contemporary hand.
The wine list runs deep on the island itself, Samos muscat alongside bottles from across Greece, poured by people who can tell you where each one comes from. Through summer the tables along the water fill early and stay lively, lanterns overhead, boats rocking a few metres from where you’re sitting.